Despite the overlap with New York fashion week (with its power brands and names) by day two of London’s creative effort it’s clear that we certainly haven’t been deserted. Our day commenced with John Rocha, in the BFC as per usual and literally brimming over with eager faces. When we call Mr Rocha reliable, it isn’t to say that he doesn’t surprise, just that he always delivers quality goods that please the punters. Of course a/w09 was no different.The John Rocha rainbow has three star hues: black, bone and a peachy nude and each season a supporting act comes in to make a play for the starring role. Last season was deep blue and coral, this season a cheerful, fiery red that punctuates the otherwise sombre palette. The show notes declare that this season is about “austerity offset with a sense of utter happiness and a handsome recklessness” and so the procession of girls took turns in prim, black tailored coats and then hooped skirts in pale pink fit for a princess and encrusted with sparkling jewels. In fact there were a few regal touches; Anne Boleyn-like head dresses adorn scraped back hair and playing King to Anne Boleyn’s fleeting Queen was a menswear shearling coat, echoing Henry VIII and his ostentatious bearskins. Rather more likely to appeal to men of today (and hopefully the kind that wouldn’t lop their multiple wives heads off) was a crisp white classic shirt with plaid panels, in fact we’d like one for ourselves.
Channeling ideas of happiness and reckless abandon we headed over to Horace at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Adam Entwistle and Emma Hales, the duo behind Horace, are a rather smiley twosome but their clothes on the other hand seem to require attitude and a designer scowl. Working predominantly in black, textured layers of knit and leather drape and cocoon the body, male or female silhouette disappearing amongst tactile layers. The overall collection is quite androgynous – both guys and girls were in stomping boots, artfully unlaced and both rocked the harem pants and fluid layers. Putting aside the rock 'n' roll aspect (which is really unavoidable) this season seemed rather sinister, perhaps owing to the collection “embodying the spirit of 18th century monks”. Not sure about anyone else, but we think there’s something a bit Edgar Allen Poe about all this.
Apparently Ann-Sofie Back was in on the trend for eerie themes with her collection poetically titled “Ann-Sofie Back burns in hell”. Lovely. As we well know when Ann-Sofie Back chooses a theme she finds hidden aspects that not many would think of and boy does she run with it. This season she went wild for classic horror films and the musical themes of the Exorcist, Psycho and Ghostbusters, amongst others, echoed around the walls of the Topshop showspace as her a/w09 collection made its debut. Cross stitching on jeans and jackets mimicked Leatherface’s mask in the Texas Chainsaw massacre, zips on prom dresses make parallels with that classic teen horror stereotype. Dreamcatcher details are inspired by the Indian burial discovery in Poltergeist 2 and slash front dresses were worn by unlucky models that had obviously suffered an encounter with Freddie Krueger before taking to the catwalk. Putting the (brilliant) theme to one side, the garments had Back’s trademark asymmetric hemlines and punky details, turning what could have been a gimmick into wearable fashion. And in any case, who wouldn’t want a sweatshirt declaring ‘Boo!’ to all who you encounter.
Peter Jensen’s show took place in the same space, and a certain Mr Kanye West (or should that be KANYE WEST in honour of his love of caps) had come along to enjoy the show. Inspired by ‘Jytte’ who seems to be Aunty Jensen according to the diary entry style show notes, a Greenland resident, the show opened with yodel-like music and featured traditional kamik snow boots given the catwalk treatment (i.e. heels and a smattering of floral patterns). It looked a little bit like Heidi had grown up and got a job in fashion in the big bad city. So what of the menswear, what will we see Kanye wearing in his next video? A toss up between the floral gilet worn by a very nerdy chic male model or a metallic houndstooth jacket, ready to glint under Flashing Lights (excuse the pun).
From Hell, to Greenland, back to the 18th century and stopping over briefly in Tudor times. Forget New York, London deserves a visit if only for the mind-boggling concepts you’ll encounter day to day.
Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: Kate Gillett
