Despite Tuesday beginning with transport problems thwarting our every attempt to get to a fashion show at all, we would not be deterred! Having discovered that both Mary Katrantzou and Cooperative Designs had started and finished as scheduled (just our luck!) we sped over to Covent Garden to catch Josh Goot at the Flower Cellars. Five stars for a gorgeous venue, all echoes and atmosphere, and top marks for the clothes, all serene minimalism. Josh seemed to have taken cues from Two Face, or more likely Ying and Yang with his two-tone collection – one side dark, one light. It was essentially monochromatic but instead of white we had barely pink and almost mint. Skinny tailoring featured contour lines almost carved out of the fabric and hair was slicked back to create a smooth, linear effect. It wouldn’t be a/w09 if Josh didn’t include a print and he didn’t disappoint with his offering, a nebular cluster of colours.
From pared down chic to tongue in cheek at Avsh Alom Gur, who wasn’t about to beat around the bush. He knows there’s economic hardship and he’s rolling with it and against it. A soundtrack littered with money themed tunes with favourites such as the Flying Lizards ‘Money (That’s What I Want)’ accompanied a beautiful gown emblazoned with the words ‘credit crunch’. These may be hard times but Av's collection steers towards haute couture. Inspired by a Parisian ball, luxury abounds with voluminous gowns, stunning dancing girl prints and a structured skirt could almost have been ripped from renaissance chair. The collection had been without it’s credit crunch theme until last Friday when it became a sudden addition – though we like to see his gorgeous clothes, it isn’t fashion week without Avsh Alom’s unique brand of humour.
Also a last minute addition to the catwalk was Blow’s Same Generation show, a replacement for the much-missed Spijkers en Spijkers who had to pull out at the last minute. Only an outfit like Blow PR with their unstinting commitment to upcoming talent, could turn this around in just a few days. We rallied our spirits and were greatly entertained by three fresh talents in a show that felt truly what London should be about: guerilla showcases and creative innovation entertaining the crowds. Gemma Slack was first up with a series of gothic garments inspired by religious crusades and medieval armour. There is a menacing overtone to her collection: mouth ‘bits’ brought back memories of Hannibal Lector and his chilling mask and a neoprene padded jacket looked like segments of vertebrae, albeit fashioned in a beautiful way. Glossy black was intermixed with a smouldering smoke print, echoing the billowing incense burning in a church thurible. Komakino also stuck to black with their menswear offering. Part bondage, part urban, there are mesh hoodies featured alongside leather biker jackets with S+M straps. What sets Komakino apart is the utilitarian detailing such as a rucksack with a hood attached and bags attached to garments. Craig Lawrence headed away from this gothic sensibility and showed a zany collection that was all about colour and movement. Inspired by sweets and cocktails, the opening dress seemed to have springs attached to the hem as it bounced down the catwalk. As ever, the crazier the collection, the more input from the audience; boy did they go wild.
Emma Bell seemed to have taken this into consideration with her brilliantly bonkers collection at the Fashion Scout. London club celeb Scottee entered centre stage to warble, or rather croak, ‘How Much is That Doggie in The Window’ in a dog costume and sparkling gold heels, accompanied by a dapper violinist. Fashion theatrics, impossible not to love ‘em. This was fun, experimental fashion with a Perspex gingerbread man waistcoat opening the show. The collection stemmed from Emma's experience seeing cruelty to dogs in East Asian cultures, so a canine theme dominated proceedings; wolf printed yellow jeans and an orange sequin dress with two kissing pups are just two examples (not to mention the slideshow of pets that preceded any catwalk action). Not all of what we saw was dedicated to man’s best friend, as cute as they are. Yellow quilted PVC trousers were like a high fashion option for trawler fishermen and a peeled banana print livened up a sparkly silver number. A neon knit houndstooth (note the hound in houndstooth!) dress paved the way for the three stars of the show: two fame hungry West Highland terriers that almost upstaged a certain Jodie Harsh.
Aside from feeling a little disappointed that we couldn’t take the live dogs home, we took comfort in the fact we would remember Emma’s barking show for a long time to come. What a way to end the day.
Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: Kate Gillett
